The trail to Muir Pass is buried underneath miles of glistening snow fields. In a high snow year, such as this, the snow covers miles of ground on both sides of the pass. From Helen Lake on the south side of Muir Hut to Wanda Lake on the north side, snow covers the trail and slows down our hiking. 

The warm summer sun feels good on our skin but causes our snowy steps to be unpredictable and slow. One step steady and one step slushy and soft. The day is long but the scenery more than makes up for it.

Evolution Basin is one of the most spectacular places in the Sierra! The Pacific Crest Trail gives visitors just a glimpse of this wild landscape. The brave adventurer needs only to hike a couple miles west or south to find trail-less solitude in one of the High Sierra’s most remote regions. Towering granite peaks protect pristine alpine lakes and provide homes for some healthy and hefty marmots who lounge across smooth stones and bask in the sun.

July 20th, 2019

Muir Ranch to Selden Pass
Miles: 23 Elevation Gain: 3,921 ft.

It takes extra effort to hike over mountain passes when they are covered in snow and that effort burns through calories faster than I can consume them. My stomach gurgles and calls out, screaming to me as if I were unaware of its emptiness. I hear you stomach! My hunger is insatiable and unfortunately we are low on food.

We decide to take a detour to Muir Trail Ranch, a regular thru-hiker resupply destination that is known for having well stocked gallon sized hiker boxes. We reach the ranch by late morning only to find the buckets empty. A sign that the trail is getting far too popular. Once filled with miscellaneous snacks and exciting mystery meals, now we are lucky if the gallon tubs have a few bars and the crumbs of a graham cracker. 

We put our packs down, charge our battery packs, and patiently watch as a group of hungry hikers passes around a jar of half eaten peanut butter. We manage to scrounge up a few fig bars and call that a win for the day. 

We leave Muir Ranch and hike over Selden Pass, a much needed easy climb with incredible views along the way.

We hike until dusk and then set up camp on a flat rocky spot just off the trail. We are delightfully exhausted and happily all alone. No other tents or campers around, just the babbling of Bear Creek flowing below.  I put on my bug net and build a fire while Cosmo finishes setting up the tent and making dinner. The flames from the fire keep the mosquitos at bay and we are able to enjoy our meal and some peaceful reading time. 

I laid my shoes and clothes around the fire (as I had done for many nights) to dry but tonight I must have gotten lost in the moment.  

Out of the silence Cosmo asked, “Are your shoes melting?” 

I got closer to my shoes and saw that indeed the rubber on the sole had started to sink into itself. “Shit! Yes!”

I moved my shoes away from the fire. Thankfully they seem to still be usable. 

As dusk turns to darkness we start to make moves towards the tent. I look back towards the trail and see a few headlamps hurriedly hiking down the trail. We recognized the packs, they were the Pacific Crest Trail hikers we saw at Muir Trail Ranch. We remembered the rushed feeling of being on a thru-hike. The self induced pressure to get significant miles in everyday, the subtle comparisons of hiking styles and plans when compared to fellow thru-hikers, and the consistent concern in the back of our minds, ‘will we make it to Canada before winter?’. There are a lot of aspects of being on a thru-hike that I miss, but the pressure of keeping a particular pace is not one of them. I know that in this moment, Cosmo and I both find appreciation for the ability, and flexibility, to push when we want to push, but choose to relax when a beautiful campsite at the end of a long day presents itself.

July 21st, 2019

Silver Pass
Miles: 21 Elevation Gain: 4,423 ft.

Silver PassMiles: 21  Elevation Gain: 4,423 ft.

Hunger kicks back in as we hike over Silver Pass, a fairly easy ascent with picturesque meadows and sparkling lakes. 

The Bear Creek water crossing was manageable and we were able to get it out of the way early.

Our hiker hunger has not subsided. We ration our bars for the day, and that rationing causes both of us to be more conscious of our food and that consciousness creates more hunger. The fig bars that we scarfed down from the hiker box are now a distant memory far removed from our empty stomachs. 

Thankfully the trail (and the community) provides. Midway through the day I came upon a French hiker sprawled out in his tent waiting for his friends to catch up. He stopped me to ask if I had seen his friends and we got to talking. He must have noticed me drooling at his overflowing food bag because he insisted that I lighten his load. Peanut butter, clif bars, trail mix, MYSTERY MEALS! I guess the popularity of the trail isn’t always bad, especially when hikers are looking out for each other.

Cosmo was ahead of me and I hurried up the trail, excited to find him and feast!

July 22nd, 2019

Reds Meadow
Miles: 26.5 Elevation Gain: 2,582 ft.

With food still as the focus, today we made it to the Red’s Meadow restaurant for veggie burgers and chips!

It felt good to indulge in a non-dehydrated meal, but we both noticed how long it had been since we’d had a fresh vegetable. We cherished the lettuce, tomato and pickle that accompanied our burger, but that was definitely not enough. We look forward to getting into town and getting access to fresher foods. 

Health  concerns aside, Cosmo and I bought two cold beers from Red’s Meadow headed back out to trail with the intention of taking each other on a mini trail date. We set up camp early and brought our brewskies out to a little bridge on the brink of the Devil’s Postpile. With bellies full and hearts full we sat, we drank, and we watched the sun set.

July 23nd, 2019

Reds Meadow to Agnew Meadows
Miles: 14.5 Elevation Gain: 3,100 ft.

We enjoyed clear skies and sweeping panoramas as we continued through the Ansel Adams Wilderness and made our way back to Agnew Meadows and briefly back to the car.

Our experience at the car was made miserable by the omnipresent mosquitoes who greeted us in the parking lot with their insatiable hunger. At the car we regrouped and refilled our bags as quickly as we could. The incessant buzzing and never-ending nuisance of these winged tormentors is enough to drive anyone mad! 

Leaving the parking lot we returned to the sweeping views of the Sierra. We set up camp, made a fire, and settled into our nightly routine.

July 24th, 2019

Island Pass - Donahue Pass - Yosemite
Miles: 17.5 Elevation Gain: 2,932 ft.

Intermittent rain and lightening made for an interesting hike over Island Pass and Donohue Pass.   

By the afternoon, a brief storm rolled in and we took shelter in our tent to avoid the rain and any potential lightning danger (it's never a good idea to climb over a mountain pass when there is a threat of lightning). 

Once the rain slowed and we saw a break in the clouds we decided to continue north. Estefany (a John Muir Trail hiker from Berlin) joined us on our hike over Donohue Pass. She attempted the climb earlier but was advised by other hikers who told her she should get down. She felt more comfortable getting up and over with other folks and we are always happy to meet new people.

July 25th, 2019

Tuolumne Out and Back
Miles: 23.5 Elevation Gain: 630 ft.

Today we made it Tuolumne Meadows / Yosemite National Park

We stopped in at the Tuolumne Meadows store/restaurant and enjoyed a picnic with fresh vegetables and potatoe wedges before heading back out to hike.

Just three miles into our hike we got caught in another rain storm, this one much stronger than the previous day. Bright lightening, boisterous thunder and cold rain and hail quickly changed the tone of our hike. 

Our clothes and gear got soaked, quickly freezing our bodies. We attempted to set up our shelter but we were too late. In the process of setting up the tent got soaked along with all of our gear. Cosmo and I sat in the wet, cold tent for over an hour, hoping that the storm would subside, but there was no break. 

Cosmo was in shorts with no rain pants. Both of us sat shivering, our shoes and socks were soaking wet, the longer we waited the colder we felt. We decided to pack up and go back to Tuolumne...letting go of our plans to hike for the next two days.

We hiked three miles back to the Tuolumne Lodge and found some warm respite in their check-in area. Unfortunately, they had no vacancy. 

We sprinted to the road and hoped for the best as we stuck our thumbs out looking for a ride out of the park. We stood alongside the empty road, quiet and shivering. The sun started to set like an hourglass in the sky quickly counting down our chances for a ride (hitchhikers and the dark don’t pair well together). We had no Plan B.

Taking pity on what must have been a sore sight (and an even sorer smell!) a small sedan with three empty seats pulled over and rolled the window down. “Where ya’ll headed?” Hunter, a young and excited park employee, was just getting off work and on his way to the infamous Tioga Pass Mobil Gas Station where folks can fill their tanks, eat gourmet food, and occasionally even catch a live band all while overlooking the scenic Mono Lake.

Lucky for us, the gas station was outside of the park and at the edge of the nearest town, Lee Vining. Feeling relieved, we hopped in the car.

From the gas station we crossed Highway 395, walked into town and somehow managed to book the last available hotel room. When we get to our room we cranked up the heat, cooked the last of our food and sat down to celebrate the end of an epic summer hike!