Black Canyon Trail Part 2: Prologue
December 28th, 2018 | San Diego
We completed the San Diego Trans County Trail with another week off of work and a strong ambition to make the most of our time. After a brief visit with Cosmo’s family in San Diego we drove east to Arizona in search of another winter trail adventure.
December 29th, 2018 | Font’s Point
During our road trip, we couldn't resist visiting Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, the largest state park in California. This stunning and rugged desert wilderness captivated us with its expansive views, rolling hills, and winding canyons. After hiking through a section of the park during our Sea to Sea trek, Cosmo and I were left eager for more. We decided to return and explore further, especially since it was conveniently located on our way to Arizona.
Fonts Point is a high point in the park and overlooks an area called the Borrego Badlands. Stretching 20 miles wide and 15 miles long, the Borrego Badlands present a captivating sight. As you gaze upon this barren expanse, you'll encounter a maze of sandy arroyos and cracked mud hills, crowned by undulating ridges that create a ripple-like pattern. Referred to as "California's Grand Canyon," this distinctive and contorted landscape sparks the imagination and evokes a sense of wonder.
To truly appreciate the area, one must suspend disbelief and envision what it might have looked like millions of years ago when water submerged the sun-drenched sands you see today. Amidst the monochromatic hills lie hidden treasures waiting to be discovered. Flowing springs and native palm groves entice adventurous hikers, adding an element of allure to this extraordinary terrain.
Dirt crumbled under our feet as we leapt from peak to peak. It was the perfect time of day to be out in the desert, the temperature was mild, the sky was clear, and the sun was just beginning to set.
December 30th, 2018
We camped in a flat stretch of sand next to a dirt road.
I woke up to the eerie hum of telephone wires and startling sound of gunshots from a nearby shooting range. Our morning run took us away from the danger of the shooting range and around Split Mountain.
After the run we packed up the car and headed east without a clear plan of what we would do next. There was a time when I doubted my own abilities and wouldn't have dared to embark on a multi-day trek without meticulous pre-planning. However, with each adventure I undertake, I find my comfort zone expanding and my confidence growing., with every trip I take I feel the boundaries of my comfort zone expanding further.
A few hours into our destination-less drive, we decided to stop for dinner. As we devoured our veggie burritos, we leveraged the power of technology at our fingertips to conduct research and craft a well-founded plan for the upcoming week. Trusting ourselves became a crucial aspect of our journey.
Over time, I have cultivated a deepening sense of confidence in my ability to navigate unfamiliar terrain, believing in my skills to tackle challenges as they arise, to figure it out. Too often, we let fear of the unknown discourage us from embracing new experiences. However, it is crucial to rely on our instincts, tap into past experiences, and have confidence in our problem-solving skills. Every trip serves as an opportunity to further reinforce these abilities, strengthening my belief in my own capabilities.
Our iPhone research led us to The Black Canyon Trail, a 77-mile route that begins outside of Pheonix, AZ and ends near Prescott, AZ. Winter is the recommended time of year to hike in this area. In the summer the desert heat can be scorching, water is scarce, and there is little escape from the sun. In the winter the nights get chilly but the days are generally sunny and warm.
It felt good to be back on a path that had a goal and a destination. Leaving the restaurant, we resumed our journey along the dimly lit Highway 8. The road stretched out before us, with the only sources of light being sporadic passing cars and the blinding headlights of off-road vehicles cruising around Imperial Sand Dunes.
The darkness made me nervous and I was ready to pull over to camp so we turned down a dirt road in search of a spot.
We were about a mile down the road when headlights appeared in the rearview mirror. It struck me as odd since we hadn't noticed any other vehicles turning off the main road with us.
"Oh, great. Looks like this is a popular camping spot," Cosmo expressed with a hint of disappointment.
We drove slowly and cautiously, surveying the dark desert to ensure we didn’t end up driving into any sinkable soft sand. The next time I looked into the rear view to see how close our camping buddy had become I saw red and blue lights flashing behind us.
“We are being pulled over?!” I blurted out in a confused question/statement.
“I guess so.” Cosmo replied also sounding confused.
We were headed in the direction of a campsite that was within the public lands boundary. There were no speed limit signs (and we certainly were not speeding), no traffic lights to drive through, and no foreseeable laws that we could have violated. We were isolated in the desert without anyone or any cars around. We stopped the car and waited for the officer to approach, while his bright white headlights pierced through our rearview mirror. We did our best to stay calm, trying to imagine what crime we might have committed.
Despite knowing that we hadn't done anything wrong, the experience of being pulled over left us feeling intimidated and unnecessarily nervous, leading to a bout of self-doubt. Eventually, the officer approached our car, and we rolled down the window to engage in a conversation.
"Hello," he greeted us with a surprisingly friendly tone. "What are you two up to tonight?"
"Hi Officer. We're on our way to Arizona and were looking for a place to camp for the night," I responded.
"Are you both US citizens?" he inquired.
"Yes," we replied.
"Alright. Well, I would suggest you drive back to the main road and camp beyond the border patrol checkpoint. This particular road has had a significant amount of cartel activity, and we've been closely monitoring it for any illegal activities. That's why I pulled you over tonight."
Feeling a sense of relief and a touch of surprise, I expressed my gratitude, saying, "Thank you for letting us know. We'll turn around right away."
The officer walked away, leaving Cosmo and me facing each other, bewildered by the encounter.
“Well, at least he was nice.” We both agreed and then turned the car around as quick as we could in the dark, narrow sandy path. We waved goodbye to the officer, and drove back to the main highway.
Uncomfortable with the idea of being parked in an isolated area, we opted for a pullout off the highway, where we set up our tent on the concrete ground, using the car as a shield against the passing headlights of vehicles zooming by on the road.
December 31, 2018
It was a perfect car travel day, stormy and cold. We drove for hours to get close to Prescott and the northern terminus of the trail. Our plan was to leave the car at the end and hitch our way to the start.
We were almost at our destination near Prescott when the snow storm hit. We were headed north along the scenic Highway Route 89. The road is winding and curves around canyon cliffs and mountain sides. Snow quickly began to cover the paved road making unsafe driving conditions. Just as we were about to enter Prescott National Forest, the road was closed and a park ranger was directing everyone to turn around.
Cosmo and I stayed positive and remained flexible in our plans, but we were both feeling uncertain about whether or not we had time to make this hike happen. We turned around and drove south to check the conditions at Big Bug Trailhead.
As we drove the snow continued to fall, the temperature dropped, and the road became icey. We made it to the trailhead with a bottle of champagne and a good attitude, ready for whatever comes our way as we get ready to ring in the new year.
When we arrived at the trailhead it was quiet with just one other car parked. We moved quick to get our car camp set up in place, trying to avoid being out in the cold temperatures for too long. Eventually we got settled and started to eat our dinner in the warmth of my cozy sedan.
“VVVVVVVVVRrrrrooooooommmmmmm” “Vvvvvvvvroooooooommmmmmmm” I looked out the car window and saw a truck struggling to get out of the parking area. I didn’t see the truck drive down, but from the looks of it, he wasn’t going to get back out in this storm. I brought my attention back inside the car and started to get ready for bed. A few minutes later I heard a revving engine, this time the sound was closer. I looked outside and there was the truck, lopsided in a snowy ditch.
Cosmo layered up and went outside to help. The driver, William, was a young man looking for a place to camp for the night. He was using his dads truck and didn’t realize how inefficient it would be in these conditions. William spent the next two hours trying to dig the front wheel out of the ditch. Cosmo used his road side service to call a tow truck for William, but even the tow truck was unequipped to pull him out. William was resilient and determined. We offered as much help as we could. William stayed up for a few more hours trying to dig his car out. Eventually he took a break, bundled up, and camped in his lopsided front seat. When I woke up the next morning, he was back at it with the digging. Poor William barely slept at all.
Cosmo went outside and joined William who was now being helped by another man who drove down in a large sprinter van. In a short period of time the van was able to pull William’s truck out of the ditch. VICTORY!
William was beaming with joy and offered to drive us to the southern terminus of the Black Canyon Trail. It was a nice gesture, however, after watching the series of unfortunate events that William’s truck put him through, I decided we should just drive ourselves.