AZT Part 9: Payson to Pine + Strawberry
Day 24 | April 14, 2022
15.4 Miles
We had breakfast at the hotel, sauntered over to McDonald’s and leisurely made our way back to the trail. Our journey continued through the Mazatzal Wilderness, which is characterized by its craggy peaks, serpentine canyons, and solitude.
The trail followed a singletrack, and occasional doubletrack, through thick manzanita and mountain shrubs. It featured verdant hillsides, winding canyons, and craggy peaks. It passes by seeps and springs, and briefly follows Sycamore Creek.
We continued north through scrub oak, crossing a streambed under idyllic white cliffs along a charming valley.
Following the slopes of Saddle Mountain, we traversed verdant hillsides and rolling grasslands before climbing up to Thicket Spring. After collecting water, we hiked up a green hill to a beautiful campsite. The night was quiet and peaceful with an incredible view of the night sky filled with stars.
Day 25 | April 15, 2022
25.2 Miles
I woke up to a sore ankle and ambitious goals of big miles. We continued our journey through the Mazatzal Wilderness. We entered Passage 23 and followed the Mazatzal Divide Trail (#23), a well-built and well-signed singletrack trail that traversed the wilderness from north to south.
The day began with a steep climb up a number of switchbacks along the east side of Mount Peeley. The trail worked its way up and around the mountain and then followed a ridgeline with incredible views.
The trail skirted deep canyons, crossed steep slopes, and passed through old growth ponderosa pine, alligator juniper, and scrub oak. There are multiple seeps and springs, as well as numerous campsites.
The trail passed under the steep, red-rock cliffs of Mazatzal Peak and climbed through thick manzanita. After hiking most of the day alone, I found Haiku and Space Case at a beautiful waterfall where I stopped for lunch.
Past Hopi Spring, the trail reached a rocky section and climbed to a high point with expansive views of the valleys to the west and the low country along the East Verde River to the north-northwest. The rugged terrain exacerbated my ankle pain which was still sore from the spill I took a few days earlier.
The section was beautiful and I didn't want the pain to slow me down, so I doubled up on ibuprofen and carried on.
In the early evening, we reached a rocky plateau and were able to see the Mogollon Rim.
We finished the day at a forested campsite. Treebeard, Almost Famous, and Sweet Shop caught up. Our camp was set up, and a small fire warmed us as we ate dinner together.
Day 26 | April 16, 2022
25.1 Miles
That morning, Sweet Shop and I hiked together for several miles. We talked about thru-hiking and the trepedacious topic of life after the trail.
After passing through the Mazatzal Wilderness, the trail descended nearly 3,000 feet into the East Verde River Valley. Even with my ankle still bothering me, I looked out across a well-graded, smooth, sandy singletrack as it snaked its way down to the river, and I just couldn't resist the urge to run.
The East Verde River is a special highlight of this passage, since it is only one of four rivers that the AZT crosses between Mexico and Utah, and is one of only two Wild and Scenic Rivers within the entire state! Although I don't regret running down hill to reach it, I definitely didn't do myself any favors.
Upon reaching the river, I couldn't ignore the sight of my swollen ankle and the accompanying limp. Feeling desperate for some relief, I soaked my leg in the cool river water, and then fashioned a makeshift brace using my bandana, hoping it would provide some support.
Leaving the river, I was faced with a tough climb across rocky terrain.
I eventually reached a peaceful plateau. The trail stretched out before me, a level path of soft, red clay, providing a refreshing break from from the rocky, ankle-twisting tread earlier. The landscape was adorned with ancient juniper trees, their twisted branches adding a touch of enchantment. It was quiet and I enjoyed hiking alone. As a pleasant breeze swept through, it alleviated the heat and dried the sweat on my skin. Yet, amidst the soothing breeze, I couldn't ignore an insatiable thirst that had taken hold of me.
I stopped for another break at White Rock Spring and then continued, hiking (slowly) into the night.
The trail became steeper as the day wore on, and the terrain became more rocky. It was getting dark and I was feeling tired and thirsty. Water was scarce in this section, and I knew I had to keep hiking until I found a reliable source.
After traveling over 20 miles and enduring hours on my feet, the makeshift bandana wrapped around my ankle offered little respite from the pain which was worsened by the rugged terrain.
As darkness descended, the trail transformed into a labyrinth of giant boulders and loose rocks scattered around. Struggling to see my way, I became dependent on my hiking pole, treating it as a reliable third leg to steady myself and navigate the rugged terrain.
I hobbled my way to Bee Tree Tank, where I filled up my water from yet another muddy, yellow source. Continuing my journey in the darkness, I pushed on for a few more miles before finally deciding to set up camp.
Day 27 | April 17, 2022
7.38 Miles
My ankle was still sore in the morning. Our next trailhead wasn't far away, so I hiked (or hobbled) to it, met up with Treebeard, and walked the road into Pine, Arizona.
SamWise (who we met in Patagonia) and his aunt Barbara surprised us with some trail magic, including popping my blister and taking care of my ankle.
We had lunch at THAT Brewery and discussed our plans for the afternoon. The crew wanted to get back to trail, but I needed a day off. I knew some rest would help my ankle feel better and get me back to hiking pain-free. Almost Famous was excited at the opportunity to stay in a hotel but the others needed some convincing.
THAT Brewery - SamWise, Almost Famous, TreeBeard, Me, Spacecase, Hoover, Haiku, Deb, Tweek
In the end, most folks returned to the trail, convinced I would catch up to them quickly and that the head start would be helpful. Meanwhile, Almost Famous, Space Case, Haiku, Deb, Tweek, and I booked a hotel room and headed over to the nearby small town of Strawberry.
