AZT Part 14: Grand Canyon Debauchery
Day 39 | April 29, 2022
17.4 Miles
After packing up camp, we visited the general store, and headed towards the canyon.
We made it to the tourist hub of Grand Canyon National Park and gazed out over the South Rim. I looked over at Sherbert who was seeing the canyon for the first time. It's one of those experiences I wish I could relive, and her smile said it all. Seeing a landscape so awe-inspiring and beautiful that it transcends the visual field and penetrates deep into the body, leaving an indelible mark.
In vain, we joined countless others who took out their cameras in a futile attempt to capture the sights, knowing that film can't bring home the feeling of standing in such grandeur.
The group split up to go to the Hermit Trail. To get to the trailhead, some of us walked along the Rim Trail, while others used the park shuttle.
We lingered at the Hermit Trail trailhead for a while and then began our long, steep descent.
I hiked a few miles with Daddy and the rest of the way by myself.
The plan was to meet at Granite Rapids and camp there. I got to the river just before sunset, expecting half the group to already be swimming, but nobody was there. I searched the large sandy camping area and bushwhacked through willow stands near the water, but no one was there.
After pushing my way through the shrubs, I finally spotted Haiku sitting on the sand, gazing towards the water. As he looked up to greet me, I felt a wave of relief wash over me that I had found someone.
"Thank goodness I found you; I was starting to think I was lost. Do you know where everyone else is?" I asked him.
"Sorry, I have no idea," he responded.
Taking a moment to look around, I was awestruck by the scenery. We were in a secluded area within the Inner Gorge of the Grand Canyon, enclosed by towering red-rock walls. There were no roads, no vehicles, and no human-made structures to be seen. The absence of cell phone beeps and television noise left room for the sound of nature like the roaring Colorado River washing away layers of sandstone and revealing the rich cultural and geological history that surrounded us. In that moment I couldn't help but feel a sense of insignificance and this made me feel at peace. I took off my backpack to join Haiku on the sand.
It wasn't long before the rest of the crew trickled in with their own stories of missed turns, mishaps, and misadventures on their journey to get here.
We gathered by the river, drinking and laughing.
Almost Famous presented the group with a big batch of freshly cooked fish, a gift from nearby rafters.
He laid the foil-wrapped offering in the middle of hikers, who pounced upon the fragrant pink strips and tore into it like zombies to flesh.
After a while, we stumbled our way back up to the campsite and settled into our spaces. Instead of using tents, we decided to sleep out in the open. Just a large group of drunken, full, and happy hikers scattered across the sand.
We stayed up far later than we should have, watching the stars emerge in the darkening sky, savoring the moment and the beauty of our surroundings.
Day 40 | April 30, 2022
16 Miles
Getting up after a late night was hard, but the sun rose early and soon the heat would be unbearable.
After leaving Granite Rapids, we continued our journey on the Tonto Trail.
The Grand Canyon is a place that stirs indescribable feelings within me. The sheer grandeur is mesmerizing, casting a spell that leaves me hypnotized and awestruck. Nostalgia, euphoria, yearning, contentment, gratitude, presence, and connection intertwine, painting a vivid palette of emotions. It is as if the universe conspires to slow time so that I can experience the wonder and majesty of this clay-colored wonderland surrounding the Colorado River. Every turn reveals a new spectacle—a symphony of forms, textures, and hidden caverns that beckon exploration. It's an experience that transcends reality, a surreal and unparalleled journey unlike anything I have ever encountered.
I plugged my headphones into my iPhone and listened to music while I hiked. Amidst the presence of a bustling group, the music became my personal refuge, granting me a sense of solitude and allowing me to retreat into my own world. It was within this personal sanctuary that my senses were heightened. The music served as a bridge, forging a profound connection between the trail and my emotions,
I yearned for more time alone as I ventured along the twisting trail. But at each bend, there was Babs, with her tiny backpack and beaming smile. She was eager to join me on this hike and seemed oblivious to my desire for space.
We engaged in a playful game of cat and mouse, with me subtly attempting to create distance, and Babs persistently trying to catch up.
Admittedly, every time I turned around and saw Babs, it was impossible not to smile.
Finally, as we reached the junction of the Havasupai Campground (a.k.a Indian Garden Campground) / Bright Angel Trail Junction, I decided it was time to take a break and refuel. We settled down for lunch, and Babs, true to her nature, sat down beside me and continued to share stories, anecdotes, and her infectious laughter. Despite my initial hesitation, I couldn't help but find amusement in her lively presence.
In that moment, I realized that while I had sought solitude, the unexpected company of Babs had added a touch of vibrancy and human connection to my hike. Sometimes, stepping out of our comfort zones and embracing the unexpected can lead to surprising and memorable experiences.
We were having lunch under the shade of some cottonwood trees when Space Case arrived bounding with energy. He wore a mischievous grin and proposed an ambitious plan. He wanted to run up the Bright Angel Trail, back to the South Rim, and then run down the South Kaibab Trail (which is the official AZT route) to meet us at Phantom Ranch. But that’s not all. Along the way he wanted to stop at Grand Canyon Village to buy enough beer, wine, and Fireball for our large hiking group and then run down with the weight of a backpack full of drinks.
It was already 2:00pm, we had hiked over 10 miles, had six more to go, and this run would mean adding over 3,000 feet of elevation gain and more than 10 additional miles to his already eventful day!
It took me a second to comprehend whether or not he was joking. Then, before I knew it, he was pulling gear out of his backpack and enlisting volunteers to carry some of his stuff down to Phantom Ranch. The next thing I knew, he was ascending the canyon. As I watched him take off, I felt both impressed and a little envious. There's just something about ambitious and masochistic trail runs that I love. Moreover, the fact that his victory would result in treats for everyone was undeniably exciting.
Eventually I left our lunch spot and headed down the busy Bright Angel Trail.
We swam in the Colorado River.
We set up at a group campsite specifically for Arizona Trail hikers at Bright Angel Campground at Phantom Ranch.
We ate dinner while singing loudly to "Cowboy Take Me Away" by The Chicks (formerly the Dixie Chicks).
Suddenly a wave of cheers broke through the music. I turned around and there stood Space Case, breathing heavily and smiling proudly.
He unzipped his backpack and began distributing a selection of individually selected drinks that he carried all the way down from Grand Canyon Village during his run. It was truly unbelievable—an extraordinary effort on his part.
After dinner, we made our way to the Phantom Ranch Cantina for lemonade with $1 refills!
After drinking five cups of lemonade, including one spiked with tequila, I left.
Little did I know, this special treat would add an exhilarating kick to my already eventful evening, setting the tone for what was to come.
It was our last night with Sherbert, Babs, and Haiku before they left the next day. It was getting late, but the energy at the campsite was high. Treebeard and Almost Famous proposed a fitting finale: a group compliment circle where we could express our admiration for one another. With eleven of us present, that meant each person had the task of giving and receiving eleven heartfelt compliments. This was going to take a while.
We settled into a circle, comfortably seated on our sleeping pads. Thanks to Space Case, a variety of alcoholic beverages were passed around in conjunction with the compliments. At first, people were a little hesitant, but after the alcohol started flowing, everyone got on board.
Laughter echoed, tears flowed, and the shots of Fireball seemed never-ending. Warmth and affection filled my heart as red wine was continuously poured into my cup.
I can't remember the last time I drank that much alcohol, and I don't remember how much I actually drank. Some of the details remain a blur. I remember managing to make it through the activity, giving out my 11 compliments like a champ. After that, everything got hazy until I woke up in the middle of the night. It was dark and I was hunched over my sleeping pad, moaning and feeling miserable. Treebeard, being the compassionate friend that he is, provided solace by rubbing my back and offering comforting words as I puked repeatedly across his ground sheet, sleeping pad, and part of his sleeping bag.
Day 41 | May 1, 2022
18 Miles
In the morning, our campsite resembled a post-apocalyptic wasteland with lifeless hikers sprawled across the sandy ground.
I awoke in a sorry state, curled up on my sleeping pad. My head was pounding and to my horror, there was a pile of vomit at my feet, baking under the sun and leaving an unfortunate stain on Treebeard's groundsheet.
Amidst the rustling of tents and the clatter of gear being packed, I struggled to open my eyes and bid Sherbert and Babs goodbye. The throbbing in my head was unbearable, and every movement made me feel dizzy and queasy. This was one of the worst hangovers I could remember. With a groan, I resigned myself to a rough morning ahead.
As the sun beat down on our campsite, I could hear the rest of our crew slowly packing up their gear and getting ready for the challenging climb up to the North Rim. I was in no shape to join them. Rolling around in my space, I moaned and groaned, unable to fall back asleep. My body was weak, and everything made me feel dizzy.
After taking ibuprofen and drinking electrolyte-infused water, I still felt awful.
At one point I reached over for some leftover potato chips, hoping that a little food could provide some relief for my uneasy stomach. It didn't take me long to realize this was a mistake. Almost instantly, a wave of dizziness and nausea washed over me and once again I was leaning over my sleeping pad throwing up into the sand.
Lying on my stomach, I watched as people walked by on the connector trail next to our campsite. I could only imagine what those passing by thought of our (mostly me) sad spectacle. Suddenly, I noticed a squirrel digging through the sand to get at the chips I'd just thrown up. After shooing it away, I crawled back into my sleeping bag, feeling defeated and embarrassed.
It was late morning and everyone had left the campsite except me, Sweet Shop and Almost Famous. Taking pity on me they packed up my backpack and assisted me in making my way to the Phantom Ranch Cantina. There, I spent another hour or two attempting to recover from my hangover. It was a humbling experience to be seen in such a vulnerable state, but I was grateful for their support and compassion.
Almost Famous sat with me outside at the Cantina, patiently waiting until I felt well enough to hike. As we sat there, I couldn't help but notice the curious looks we were receiving from the weekenders, day hikers, and trail runners bustling around us. I'm sure our disheveled appearance and sour smell didn't go unnoticed. Occasionally, I caught the gaze of someone whose expression seemed to suggest, with solidarity, "Tough hike, huh?" Little did they know that our exhaustion was just due to a night of heavy drinking. As long as I didn’t have to engage in actual conversation with them, I didn't mind their assumptions.
Eventually, we left the ranch, and as I was hiking, my energy started returning and I felt like myself again. The combination of fresh air and physical activity worked wonders on my lingering hangover. Almost Famous stayed by my side, offering support and companionship along the way. As we trekked through the breathtaking landscape, I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of gratitude for the beauty that enveloped us.
By the time we got to Ribbon Falls (a short side trip from the official Arizona Trail), I felt like a new person. The waterfall was a sight to behold with water cascading down from a high cliff and pouring into a clear pool at the bottom. We ventured behind the falls, feeling the mist on our faces and marveling at the view from every angle.
I took a plunge into the cool, refreshing waters of the pool, feeling revitalized and invigorated. To think, just a few hours ago, I was wallowing in the aftermath of a hangover, surrounded by my own vomit and feeling utterly depleted. But now, as I stood beneath the awe-inspiring waterfall, water dripping from my nose and a smile plastered across my face, I couldn't help but feel renewed and ready to take on the tough climb ahead. It was a powerful reminder of life's ability to turn moments of misery into unexpected joy, a lesson on the transformative power of nature and the comedic absurdity of our own misadventures.
With the North Rim in sight, we prepared ourselves for the arduous ascent on the North Kaibab Trail. Renowned for its challenging terrain and dramatic elevation changes, this trail is not for the faint of heart.
As we climbed, my hunger grew insatiable. During our stop at the Manzanita Resthouse, I quickly cooked up a serving of Ramen Noodles to refuel for the 4,000-foot ascent ahead.
Space Case, Daddy, Tailgate, and Silver Bullet were the first to leave the rest area, with Almost Famous, Treebeard, Sweet Shop, and myself following shortly behind.
As expected in the Grand Canyon, the views along the North Kaibab Trail were breathtaking and motivating.
However, the seemingly endless switchbacks left us feeling exhausted.
We finished the last part of the climb in the dark, and by the time we reached the top the temperatures were freezing.
After refilling our water bottles, we continued on until we found the rest of our group who were already camping in a nearby wooded area.
