AZT Part 15: North Rim to Jacob Lake
Day 42 | May 2, 2022
23.3 Miles
This was one of the coldest mornings we've had on the trail. The ground was coated with frost, and patches of snow and ice dotted the landscape. As I sat up in my tent, wrapped in my sleeping bag, I could see my breath in the frigid air. Looking out, I saw my hiking companions still asleep on the ground, completely exposed to the elements. Though I admired their resilience, I've done this too many times to be motivated by it. I dreaded the process of packing up my gear while shivering.
I quickly layered up, broke down my tent, and relocated to a spot where the sun was beginning to shine. Normally, the sun provided instant warmth, but this morning was different - the cold persisted. I took a while to pack everything up because I kept stopping to rub my hands together fiercely, hoping to restore some warmth to my fingers and prevent them from becoming numb.
Almost Famous was the next one up. He got ready quickly and although I was still scrambling to get everything together, he patiently waited for me in the sunny spot. We set out together, hiking along a mix of dirt roads and singletrack trails across a gentle terrain, with some short, steep sections through rolling, forested hills and lush meadows.
On one dirt road crossing, we came across a mailbox and a clear plastic bin filled with blank postcards.
The mailbox seemed out of place in such an isolated area without houses or buildings nearby. Suddenly, we realized it was trail magic. What a clever idea! We took a break and wrote letters to a few of our friends. I decided to write to Sawna, one of my closest friends, sharing with her my experiences on the trail and how much I missed her. Although it was a small gesture, it helped me feel more connected to the outside world.
We took a break in the afternoon to refill our water, have a snack, and wait for the others to catch up. However, to our surprise, no one arrived.
Next, we stopped at the North Rim Fire Lookout, one of four fire lookouts in Grand Canyon National Park.
We continued our journey through Kaibab National Forest, entered Passage 40, and followed the trail to the East Rim Viewpoint - a breathtaking destination offering panoramic views of the distinctive geology, Saddle Mountain Wilderness, Marble Canyon, Vermillion Cliffs, and Navajo Mountain in the distance. This scenic lookout was a welcome respite from the otherwise monotonous and flat terrain of the forest.
Throughout the day, I kept expecting someone from our crew to catch up with us, but to my surprise, we hadn't seen anyone since leaving camp in the morning, despite frequent breaks. It felt strange not crossing paths with anyone else from our big group, and although we weren't too worried, it was unusual and made me wonder where they were. As the sun set and the temperature dropped, we made the decision to set up camp, even if it meant being without everyone else. Although we'd have liked to be all together, we were tired and didn't want to hike any further.
Almost Famous and I found a large flat campsite, big enough for more people should they show up. We built a small fire to keep warm and enjoyed a peaceful dinner under the stars.
Day 43 | May 3, 2022
22.9 Miles
The next day we continued our trek northward across the Kaibab Plateau.
The trail was gently graded, winding around hillsides and weaving in and out of dense forests.
It was a cold and windy day with gray skies interspersed with brief pockets of sunshine.
After not seeing anyone from our group for over 24 hours, we finally found Space Case and Tailgate. We discovered that some of our group members took an alternate shortcut, explaining why we had been on our own for so long. It was a relief to know that they were safe and sound. We exchanged stories and filled in the gaps, relieved to be reunited once again.
Taking a break to make lunch, we sat nearby the most reliable water source of the section: a cement trough.
Despite the relatively easy terrain, I felt fatigued. My energy levels were affected by the cold wind and the limited sunlight, which made the hike seem harder than it was. Luckily, we were close to Jacob Lake, a small resort and place to refuel.
Our crew reunited at Jacob Lake where we packed ourselves into a small hotel room for some much-needed rest and relaxation.
